![]() ![]() So, we drilled out the pop rivets and got the door laid out. Second, Pop rivets look terrible compared to buck or Olympic rivets. It looked like the door had been reattached at some point as evidenced by the use of low-quality steel pop rivets. We started off by getting the door off the side of the Airstream and getting it laid down on a work surface. New Panel Installation (finally finishing it) Remove and strip down the door-in-door door Kyle had Jackie’s dad Don along to help today. Ok, fine makes sense… But what doesn’t make sense at all is that if you accidentally don’t latch the door well enough, keep in mind Airstreams have a tendency to flex and change over time, when you’re cruising down the road at 65mph, if the wind catches the door and flings it open, you’ve created a hinged missile with a path of destruction for both the door handle and the panel to the left of the door. It also means that when the door is open, it opens to the side where the old furnace and refrigerator stood and doesn’t block the windows. Now there’s a really good reason for this, the door opens from right to left and thus, the hinges don’t have to go where the 2 Hehr Clearview windows are stacked to the right of the door. Meaning, if you’re looking at the door, the hinges are on the left side. ![]() 99% of the things that they did in 1959 on these things, I agree with. There’s one piece of engineering that I’ve never been able to understand when it comes to Wally the Airstream. While we were taking the door off, we realized that the panel behind the door had some dings in it that would never look right after polishing. I should probably not stress out so much about it being perfect. I’m super happy that the dents and crumples are gone and we have a new shiny panel all in place. The last stage was to get the buck rivets in at the top and cleco in the bottom to the bottom C-channel.Īll in all it turned out perfectly. Drill a couple holes, plug in some clecos and voila! we’ve got a panel aligned. Then we made sure that the top of the panel was straight and aligned. We tacked in the bottom of the panel in the gap where the rear panel will go eventually, and tightened up the bottom as tight as we could go. We got all the buck rivets and the sealant/adhesive on the top all into place and set and I couldn’t wrap my head around getting the bottom all straight while keeping the panel from bucking while also following the contour of the rear corner. When I work through something in my head and I can’t quite feel comfortable with the process, I have a hard time finishing something up until I can get my mind completely wrapped around it. I hope someone that’s reading this can sympathize. I don’t know what the problem is with some of these things. Today we’ll talk about the new panel installation! We wrapped up our rear lower street-side panel installation finally! We had it tacked in for a long time but hadn’t finished the buck riveting and getting everything aligned. New Panel Installation (finally finishing it) (Part 3) Remove and strip down the door-in-door door (Part 1) As we mentioned in part 1, we had a lot of working going on the last couple days! Here’s what was on the docket: ![]()
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